Kalanggaman Island: The island that gives you wings to paradise.

 

This post brings me back to my college days. I was a busy nursing student trying to keep a balance between studies and actually living my life. It was always my dream to go places; anywhere old or new, anywhere simple or fascinating, anywhere laid back or filled with adventure. I just really wanted to travel non-stop. However, as a full-time student, I hardly had the time and even more the money to do so. I’d just find myself a good internet cafe and let my mind “travel” to these places posted on blogs and the internet in general. It would only take me around 2 hours plus 30 pesos average to solve my time and money dilemma that stopped me from traveling 🙂 One of the places that I instantly became obsessed with during my “mind travel” was this small but alluring island having the whitest of sands and the bluest of seas — Kalanggaman island.

Official welcome signage.

Kalanggaman island is the perfect unspoiled destination everyone should have on their bucket list. Although already a part Palompon Leyte, this uninhabited attraction in the Visayas is also located near Northern Cebu. The island apparently got its name (“langgam” = bird in Bisaya) from its bird-like form when seen from an aerial point of view. The two sandbars on each end look like its wings. Unfortunately, one of the sandbars is apparently no longer as visible as before because of the damage Typhoon Haiyan brought into the picture in 2013. Some may mention that the island is like a mini Boracay, but I beg to disagree. Kalanggaman island has such pure beauty uninterrupted by the structural work of man. I’d pick this island over the above mentioned anytime.

You can try using google maps and look at the 360 degree photo uploaded from the place.

An aerial view of Kalanggaman island.

HOW WE GOT THERE.

The island is conveniently located near various points of departure found in either Cebu or in Leyte. Our group planned to meet at Cebu North Bus Terminal at 3:00 am to catch one of the earliest trips to Maya Port however, some were late and we ended up riding the bus departing at 4:30 am. We opted for some comfort for the 4-hour long trip by choosing the air-conditioned bus that costs P 190 per head. If you prefer the cheaper option, they also have regular buses for P 120 per head. I suggest you bring a travel pillow with you for the long and early trip, and try to stay away from the skimpy route of outfits as it can get really cold given the time of the day.

Maya Port with the pump boats waiting.

We arrived at Maya Port at 8:30 am, ate our breakfast at a carenderia within the area, and waited for a few more latecomers. We finally left for Kalanggaman island at 10:30 am and arrived at the island short before 1:00 pm. I know our group is not exactly the epitome of itinerary followers, but we still made it to our destination anyway. I suggest you check for dates with a higher chance of good weather. We were quite worried about our trip because of the day before’s bad weather. We were even informed that those who planned to go to the island a day before us got their trips cancelled due to strong winds and rain. It even rained while we were at sea, and there was zero visibility but good thing the boatmen knew their way around. For more information and other alternatives to get to the island, you can check other blogs like this one which I usually trust for travel tips and info.

WHAT WE DID.

We were finally there! This was my college obsession and now I could finally see it for myself. This destination has been gradually becoming more popular and the only thing I guess I wished was different was the number of people on the island and the boats parked right where you might want to swim. If you plan to visit soon especially during summer, I suggest you go there on a weekday for a chance of lesser people.

Yes, that’s us!

Upon arrival, we immediately looked for a shady and strategic location to put up our tents. Somewhere not too hot in the day, and not too cold in the evening. We were lucky enough to find a place near the beach, under the shade of trees, and near a cottage that we eventually rented for P 500. Ironically, the tent that I and my partner borrowed did not have the bars used to make the tent stand up like a tent, and so we ended up renting one from the island for P 400. Once all tents and things were put into place, us hungry travelers set up our mini cooking area, and took out the food we brought to be cooked. I must admit I’m no good at cooking and in order to not interfere or burn any food, I made my way to the more isolated side of the island to see what was in store. I’ll be showing you some pictures in a few.

Setting up our tents.

Like I mentioned, the island has two sandbars on both ends. However, only one of the two is densely occupied by flocking travelers. If this island was a boat, I’m pretty sure it would have long ago sank into the deep due to the lack of weight balance on both sides. As I made my way to the isolated area of the island, I noticed a few unfinished structures that seemed like toilets, grilling areas, and huts. I also pleasantly came across some flightless birds in the area who would quickly hide in the bushes in the presence of humans. Although not as sandy as the other end, I found myself at peace just looking at the waves and beautiful rock formations. I even came back later in the afternoon when the weather was much better together with my partner. Here are some photos of what we came across on our little adventure.

Me and my partner off to the other end of the island.

An aerial shot of the less populated side of Kalanggaman island.

Another aerial shot, this time of what was left on the other sandbar.

The other side of the island has an extensively white and long sand bar that becomes fully accessible during low tide. We tried going to the tip when the ocean was still in transition to low tide yet our attention got called. Apparently, there have been several cases of people drowning because of their persistence that it was safe enough to reach the tip even when the current was significantly strong. We retreated and decided to just stay on the wider and safer part of the sandbar. We didn’t want anything tragic to happen on such a dreamy vacation.

At the tip of the sandbar.

Retreating to wait til low tide.

On the safer side of the sandbar.

It didn’t take much to convince everyone to make their way to the sandbar and sea. The way it naturally is is more inviting as it can ever be. The waters are so clear and perfectly turquoise blue. It is though only safe to swim on the front side of the island as the waters are calm and the water just becomes deep gradually. I’ve always loved swimming and was never afraid of deep waters, but this was the first time I saw a large school of fish swimming so close to shore. I tried to get as close as possible but they swam deeper into the ocean and, of course, faster than I ever could. I did get to capture them using our GoPro camera though. I guess the effort still paid off 🙂

My first seen school of fish!

We spent most of our day exploring what the island had to offer, swimming in the undeniably stunning blue seas, and having fun under the sun with our cameras. Time went by so fast and it was already getting darker. We tried to watch the sunset until it got covered by the clouds halfway through. The rest of the night was spent eating dinner, sitting around a table with some drinks, talking about anything we could think of. We had such a genuinely fun time and it felt really good to just sit down, talk and laugh with everyone. A great contributor to this? The fact that none of us had internet connection. If there was any internet signal, I’m pretty sure all of us would be facing our phones the whole time, missing out on the true essence of enjoying what was in front of us. These are the moments that really stick to your heart 🙂

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It was already midnight and the group decided it was a good idea to get some rest in preparation for the morning’s sunrise. We all made our way to our tents, all sticky and smelly from the day’s adventures. Remember there is hardly any fresh water on the island. I heard you could get some for P 1oo if you really want to take a rinse, but we decided to experience the island life to the fullest. As we laid down with our tents open, I couldn’t help but notice how beautiful the night sky was. You can hardly see this in the city because of all of the lights. With the island having no electricity, the stars were so visible even with some clouds covering the view. We tried to take photos but nothing is as alluring as what you can see with the naked eye.

A night shot, though the clouds started to cover the night sky.

Talking about sunrise, I personally thought me and we wouldn’t be able to wake up early enough to see it based on our previous travels. We were always too lazy to get up especially after a long night. However, that day was a first. We were miraculously on our feet at 5:30 am, made our way to the sandbar with our banig and GoPro, and sat down to watch all the magic happen. It was so cold and windy but it didn’t bother us as we sat, stared, talked, and took our photos and videos. You might want to bring some tinted sun glasses with you because we all know how bright the sun can be.

Before we were to leave the island at 9:00 am, we quickly went to what was left of the other sandbar as it was more visible that morning. After taking a few videos and pictures, we ate our breakfast, packed our things and made our way to Malapascua, a small island part of Daanbantayan, Cebu which is famous for its diving spots. We spontaneously decided to stay overnight there as well, though we didn’t go diving. We stayed at the back part of the island away from the majority of civilization. We went swimming again, ate on the wide shore, explored the popular side of the island, watched the sunset and finally took a shower.

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As the dawn got near and the night got as cold as it could, we all laid down our banigs on the sand and rested with our cute pillows and blankets as we were expecting the bangka to pick us up at 1:00 am. To our dismay, the boatman we originally had an agreement with did not show up and we had to call a new one. We ended up leaving at 4:30 am and got stuck in traffic on our way back to Cebu City. It was a 5 hour agonizing trip and we ended up being late or absent from work on a Monday morning. Nevertheless, I believe we made the most of our short vacation and I would love to do it again. Though I think I’ll find a super comfy travel pillow or two to bring with me for these long bus rides.

 

REMINDERS. TIPS.

• Try to pick dates that fall under the dry season here in the Philippines, most preferably from March to May. Though the weather can be pretty unpredictable, try to search for dates with a sunny weather forecast. If you want to be sure that your scheduled trip won’t be cancelled because of bad weather, you can contact Mr. Christopher Montebon at (+63)9173037269. He is part of Palompon’s Ecotours Office. I also asked him about the weather for our trip and he confirmed that the coast guards were allowing trips again.
• If you are the type of person who would prefer to have less people photobomb your photos, try to pick a weekday instead of a weekend to visit.
• There are pump boats waiting at Maya Port for people who plan to go to Kalanggman island as early as dawn. The standard rate for a special trip (including the overnight wait at the island) is P 8,000 for 20 people. There are also bigger boats for a bigger group however, to be sure that there will be a boat available once you arrive, you might want to contact a boatman in advance. You may also ask Mr. Montebon about the pumpboat reservations.
• Do your research about the costs of this trip, as well as the costs at Kalanggaman island to avoid being scammed. I am not going to refer the boatmen who brought us to the island as they tried to fool us about the expenses and gave us much of a headache throughout our trip. They told us that the rent for the smallest tent was P 450 instead of P 400, that the overnight fee for local tourists was P 250/head instead of P 225/head. They also demanded additional payment as they “did not know” we were staying at the island overnight, which I’m sure is a lie. Make sure you ask the people who are really in charge at Kalanggman about the prices. Be cautious and don’t trust easily.
• You will most likely be leaving some of your valuables in your tents. Try to arrange your tents in a way that everyone can keep an eye on who comes close, especially if you go there on a crowded day. If that isn’t possible, try to bring a dry bag with you to keep your gadgets and other valuables safe with you.
• There is no electricity on the island. Charge your gadgets before you leave home and bring as many power banks as possible to keep your gadgets alive throughout your stay.
• There is a small convenience store with limited choices of things to buy on the island. Make sure you buy everything you will need from mainland before you leave like drinking water, other drinks, food, snacks, gas, charcoal, ice, tents, pillows, blankets, goggles, snorkels, clothes, etc. Better assess your needs and make a checklist to be sure.
• Try to find a good and shady area on the island for you to put up your tents. You wouldn’t want to sweat like a pig during the day if you want to hibernate inside.
• There are grills available that are free of charge, but no charcoal or gas. They also have toilets around the island, but no showers with fresh water. I was told there is limited supply of fresh water for baths and that they charge P 100 for it.
• Exert extra effort to keep the island as free from trash as possible. You should be responsible and bring your own trash bags. The trash you accumulate will then be brought back with you to mainland.
• Be on time to avoid traffic, to get the best chances at a calmer sea, to possibly see dolphins play with you on your way to the island, and to get a better place to put up the tent. As much as possible, stick to your itinerary and make the most of your trip.
• And of course, keep yourself out of danger at all costs. No matter how good of a swimmer you are.

For those who have wished to visit this island and were as obsessed as I was, I say go and plan your trip as soon as possible. What you get to see and experience will not let you down at all. Just be prepared to experience the island life away from your typical human luxuries 🙂